Where to Eat, Sleep & Explore in the Hudson Valley

The waitress took this one. | Quaker Diner, West Hartford, CT

The waitress took this one. | Quaker Diner, West Hartford, CT


Here's a glimpse of what it's like to be married to a pragmatic engineer:


Earlier this summer, we received an invite to a friend's wedding in Bedford, New York. I'm one of those people who loves weddings. Traveling for a wedding? Well, that is the holy grail, especially if the bride or groom is from the area. It can be an incredibly immersive experience-- you get to know a few locals, party at a [hopefully] cool venue, and bum around in between wedding events. 


My husband likes weddings too, but when it comes to traveling for one, he's not always as enthusiastic. He asked me to "put together a proposal," highlighting flights, accommodations, and potential activities (along with pricing... obviously).
 

Instead of opting for the most obvious route (flying in to JFK/Newark/LaGuardia), I went for an only slightly less convenient option that allowed for some serious historical sightseeing and even more serious pizza eating. He liked my proposal so much that he signed off on the whole deal. I did a happy dance. This must be what it feels like to work in corporate America!


Here's excellent three-day adventure from Connecticut, through the Hudson Valley, then back through Connecticut. 
 


Day One


We arrived in Hartford, CT late on a Thursday night, crashing at a Hampton Inn in because Hampton Inns are inexpensive and pretty nice, and they serve free breakfast and offer coffee in the lobby all day long!

Of course, I wanted nothing to do with their breakfast because I'd already scoped out an amazing diner. 


Breakfast at the Quaker Diner - West Hartford, CT

The Quaker Diner in West Hartford, CT

The Quaker Diner in West Hartford, CT


I've never met a diner I didn't like. This 80-some-year-old one didn't disappoint. The food was nothing special (precisely why I loved it), the waitress actually sat down and ate pancakes next to us at the bar (loved it!) and coffee refills-o-plenty, in thick diner mugs to boot (loooved it!).  
 

Pancakes at Quaker Diner.

Pancakes at Quaker Diner.

I mean, how adorable is that?

I mean, how adorable is that?


No matter where I'm eating breakfast, I hardly ever order anything other than a classic American breakfast with over-easy eggs, bacon and hashbrowns (preferably crispy ones). Some days, I believe I'm an old man, stuck in my ways.
 

Classic American Breakfast, the way it's supposed to be!

Classic American Breakfast, the way it's supposed to be!


If you're one of the jerks that takes time to write a Yelp review of this place stating the decor is "dated," then you simply do not understand life. On a related but tangential note, never use Yelp unless you absolutely must. Try Eater instead. You're welcome. 
 

Me-n-my boo

Me-n-my boo

 

Tour Winding Roads in an a Ridiculous Rental Car

Obligatory photo on the hood. 

Obligatory photo on the hood. 


Whenever we rent a car, Josh and I try to single out the most ridiculous option. Thank you, National, for your Emerald Aisle and its inclusion of a bright blue Jeep Renegade.

Bonus points for it being from New Hampshire, which clearly has the best state motto of all!
 

Our big, blue Jeep Renegade.

Our big, blue Jeep Renegade.


This blue beast took us all the way from Hartford, CT to Hyde Park, NY-- about two hours. I knew the Hudson Valley was supposed to be pretty, but was blown away by the beauty. Between the leaves just starting to turn, the for-real elevation changes, idyllic little towns, narrow roads straight out of a car commercial (more like a fancy convertible commercial, not a Jeep commercial), it was the exact thing anyone would want on a fall road trip.  

Because we're always eating, we stopped at a quaint farmstand and bought honeycrisp apples, which actually come from Minnesota. I can't blame these New Yorkers for copying our style; they're delicious. 
 

This was not our rental car. 

This was not our rental car. 

A taste of MN in NY. 

A taste of MN in NY. 


Say Hi to Our Friends, the Vanderbilts

Ding dong! 

Ding dong! 


We didn't have enough time to go inside the 54-room Vanderbilt mansion. The building dates back to 1896, and was primarily used as a vacation home. So it's just a cabin, basically. Today, the Vanderbilt Mansion is a part of the National Parks Service and you can tour it at your leisure instead of waiting for, say, Anderson Cooper or Gloria Vanderbilt to send you an invite. 
 

Hang Out with My Pal, Eleanor

It's Eleanor Roosevelt's place. Fdhjskalfhdjakfhdjskal!!!

It's Eleanor Roosevelt's place. Fdhjskalfhdjakfhdjskal!!!


Surprise! I was so thankful that this out of town wedding just so happened to be one hour from Val-Kill, also known as the ONLY place Eleanor Roosevelt ever considered home. We spent a few hours here during the course of the weekend (this gets its own post at a later date), but if I had to sum up the experience, it would be this: humbling and inspiring. 


So I Guess the FDR Library Isn't Really a Library

Wait a sec... where are the books? - FDR Presidential Library, Hyde Park, NY

Wait a sec... where are the books? - FDR Presidential Library, Hyde Park, NY


Because I'm under the age of 62, I've never been to a presidential library. I honestly believed that there would be, like, books and stuff here.

Au contraire!

Instead, this was the most kick-ass exhibit about the life and presidency of FDR. Everything was incredibly well executed, informative and well-designed. Josh and I were blown away at the attention to detail and amount of memorabilia. 

This was by far my favorite thing in the whole joint: Eleanor on one of her many "official business" trips, carrying her own tiny suitcase. You know Michelle Obama doesn't do that. 
 

Before rolling suitcases and Secret Service for former First Ladies were invented. 

Before rolling suitcases and Secret Service for former First Ladies were invented. 


We snapped a quick photo with E & F. They are super photogenic, and very tan!
 

Just reading a few books (?) with our friends Eleanor & Franklin.

Just reading a few books (?) with our friends Eleanor & Franklin.


After the library, we did a spin through the Springwood grounds-- the fancy name for the fancy house where FDR grew up and lived for most of his life (except for when he was at the White House).
 

Quaint Springwood.

Quaint Springwood.


FDR was the guy that started this whole presidential library thing. What might surprise you is that he opened his library, which is adjacent to his house, while he still lived on the property... while he was president!  I mean, can you imagine the Bush or Obama family being like, "yeah, anyone, come on our to our estate and hang out in my library?" FDR's actual office was in the same building as the library (!). His office, now enclosed in glass, remains largely untouched and can be viewed while touring the library.  

I'm not 100 percent sure how this all actually worked in the 1940s, but I do think it was open to the public. Long story short, times have changed. 
 

Pay Our Respects

There's E & F, one of the greatest American partnerships of all time.

There's E & F, one of the greatest American partnerships of all time.


Eleanor & Franklin are buried at Springwood, surrounded by a stunning rose garden. 

While these two didn't exactly have a storybook marriage (infidelity, over-bearing mother-in-law, stressful jobs, out-of-control kids, chronic illness... the usual), their relationship was monumental. Together, they led the country through the Great Depression and a World War. In some ways, I'm heartbroken for what they missed out on personally, but am incredibly grateful for what they accomplished together.

The USA wouldn't be as great as it is without Eleanor & Franklin, so if you have a moment and you're so inclined, send them a nice mental note of gratitude. I am right now!
 

Eat Crab Cakes

River Station - Poughkeepsie, NY

River Station - Poughkeepsie, NY


All this history was making us hungry. We knew absolutely nothing about River Station in Poughkeepsie, other than it looked kind of divey, served beer and had a great patio. 


So imagine my surprise when this beauty arrived at our table:
 

Crab cakes at River Station - Poughkeepsie, NY

Crab cakes at River Station - Poughkeepsie, NY


Unbelievable. 


Dinner at the Culinary Institute of America

The Culinary Institute of America - Photo by Jiashiang

The Culinary Institute of America - Photo by Jiashiang


We took it easy at River Station because we'd made reservations Ristorante Caterina de Medici at the Culinary Institute of America. This is the premiere culinary school in the country, and lots and lots of famous chefs studied here. I've heard about the CIA for years and was so excited for the opportunity to go.

The food was good, not amazing, but it's pretty impressive that the whole thing is run by students (with a few accomplished chefs overseeing the whole shebang). It's fun to support young people looking to launch careers in the food business. Tuition here is sky-high, and most entry-level kitchen jobs are measly hourly wages (or unpaid), so I'm always impressed by a culinary student's ambition to just go for it (well, either that, or they're very bad at numbers). 
 

Apparently, my husband leaves his phone on the table. Shameful.

Apparently, my husband leaves his phone on the table. Shameful.

 

Day Two


Can you believe we fit all that into one day?! Me neither. We slept in a little on Saturday morning, but we still had lots to check off our to-do list. 


Take a Walk with Eleanor

Just little ol' me on Eleanor's daily walk.

Just little ol' me on Eleanor's daily walk.


The previous day, I'd noticed a walking path at Val-Kill, and asked (begged) Josh to go back. So we did, and thus began the coolest non-wedding thing I did the whole trip. There's a wooded, mile-and-a-half loop on the Val-Kill property where Eleanor walked daily, usually with a few dogs in tow. It was here she thought about topics for her nearly daily newspaper column, My Day, and took breaks from the lite task of writing the Universal Declaration of Human Rights.

It reminded me a lot of the area around my family's cabin. Woods, dirt paths and the occasional pond. Just regular stuff. That's one of many reasons I love Eleanor-- she's so relatable, and enjoyed simple stuff like tea, hanging out with her friends, and walks in the woods with her dogs.
 

Hurry Up and Gussy Up

Me & Mrs. Dixon!

Me & Mrs. Dixon!

Babies always steal the show.

Babies always steal the show.


Because our walk went a little longer than normal... and because we met friends for lunch... and because we didn't quite realize just how far we had to drive for this wedding, Josh and I arrived at the Hyatt in Greenwich, CT literally five minutes before the wedding shuttle left.

Whoopsies!

I'd put on my makeup in the car, so all we had to do was 1) check in; 2) run about a quarter of a mile to our room; 3) change; 4) flag down the shuttle as it was exiting the parking lot. 

No sweat. 

We made it to the wedding on time to see Harmony and Kayser tie the knot. Everything was beautiful.
 


Day Three


Hungover Pizza Eating

Frank Pepe's: Apizza Apilgrimage 

Frank Pepe's: Apizza Apilgrimage 


I'm not going to name names, but someone in our group of two drank a lot of Manhattans at the wedding. I wasn't worried about this person's ability to rally: I'd designed day three of our trip around eating pizza.

In fact, Frank Pepe is the entire reason I wanted to fly in and out of Hartford, CT. 

Located in nearby New Haven, CT, Frank Pepe is basically the dude who brought neapolitan pizza to the states. So you can go ahead and add him to your gratitude list (right after Eleanor & Franklin). This place has been open since 1925 and still serves Frank's delicious coal-fired pizza.

The line is nothing to sneeze at, but typically moves fast. There's two Frank Pepe locations right next door to each other. One is "the original," but only technically-- this is the spot where Frank first opened a bakery. The traditional pizza spot is the one with the big, sexy sign. Both serve the same menu, but my advice: skip the original for a more fun experience.
 

The original Frank Pepe. Well, kinda.

The original Frank Pepe. Well, kinda.


We ordered their signature garlicky clam pizza, as well as a pepperoni. Maybe it's my Minnesota roots talking, but I didn't love the clam. (Please don't murder me).
 

Frank Pepe's clam apizza

Frank Pepe's clam apizza

Pepperoni apizza.

Pepperoni apizza.


Filled with pizza, root beer and incredible post-wedding aches and pains, we returned the blue beast, took the shuttle to Hartford-Brainard airport and headed back to Minnesota. 


While I'd put Minnesota apples up against New York's any day, there's something special about the east coast that you simply don't get in the middle. Everything is so much older and steeped in American history. The best part? It all so close! This is the perfect trip for a long weekend.

Especially because this one ends with pizza.


* * *

Big thanks to Dutchess Country Tourism for showing me all the goods (this post wasn't sponsored by them, but they did give me some excellent direction!).

Want to read about other fun road trips? Glad you asked! Here's the time my hubby and I drove from Minnesota to Vermont and back in 4 days. Also, the time we drove from Minneapolis to Indianapolis on a motorcycle. Here's Sarah Von Bargen talking about the 6-week road trip she took solo last summer; and Caitlin talking about driving across the country all by herself

I'm always looking for cool trips-- what's your favorite road trip destination? 

Where to Eat, Drink, Dance & Cry in Nashville


As a classic country music lover and food fanatic, Nashville is my Mecca.

Home of the Grand Ol' Opry, honky tonk bars and delicious, delicious southern grub, I've been dying to get to Music City. Plus, Patsy Cline lived here. And maybe you didn't know this, but I've got a thing for Patsy Cline. So when my handsome, thoughtful husband surprised me with a trip to Nashville for our anniversary, I about peed in m'pants. 

Even though our Airbnb sucked, this long weekend was one of the best trips I've ever had in my entire life. Sure, I had great company, but also the food! The music! The pop culture history! And we rented a Charger, which was so funny! Here's what we ate, drank, partied and cried. (PS I'm the only one who cried)

Hattie B's Hot Chicken

This food was way better than it looks. It was dark and late. 

This food was way better than it looks. It was dark and late. 


So it's 10 pm, you've just landed in a new city and you're so hungry, you could eat a dead armadillo on the side of the road. Whelp, that was us. But unlike our Minneapolis neighborhood, which basically only offers pizza and crappy bar food late-night, Nashville has Hattie B's Hot Chicken. Imagine: perfectly friend chicken, smothered in hot sauce. Pick your heat carefully: we did a mix of medium AND hot wings, and regretted the hot. We aren't even wimps about that kind of thing! Remember, you do not win a prize for eating the hottest chicken, so just chill out! We sampled the mac & cheese, slaw, southern greens and banana pudding. Josh literally had to whack the banana pudding out of my hand, saying, "What the hell is wrong with you? You're going to feel like crap if you keep eating that!" I didn't listen, and I did feel like crap, and it WAS WORTH IT.

 

Barista Parlor

You'd think they were performing brain surgery, but no. It's just delicious coffee.

You'd think they were performing brain surgery, but no. It's just delicious coffee.


We couldn't wait to get the eff out of our Airbnb, and thankfully the finest coffee shop in town was just down the road. Barista Parlor is one of those coffee shops that takes itself a little too seriously, but you still secretly wish your house looked even a third as cool as any nook in the whole shop. Or that you could pull off that mustache and suspenders look (even if you're a girl). We ordered fancy-ass pour over coffees and the most amazing biscuit egg sandwiches. I got mine on a gluten-free biscuit, because I'm clearly watching my gluten intake (see Hattie B's blurb above... yeah, that meal was T-O-T-A-L-L-Y gluten-free). Loved the sammy so much, we went back Monday morning before heading to the airport. 

 

RCA Studio B

Me & Roy Orbison's actual guitar. He was a lot taller than you'd think.

Me & Roy Orbison's actual guitar. He was a lot taller than you'd think.


I heard Jill Riley from The Current (the Twin Cities' awesome public radio station) mention that you can't check out RCA Studio B unless you book a tour, available only through the Country Music Hall of Fame. I made sure to get that shiz in order well-before our trip because it sells out. There was no way I was going to miss seeing the place where Elvis recorded 260 songs & Dolly famously crashed her car running late for a recording session!

We took a shuttle bus from the CMHoF to the studio-- about a 10 minute drive with 20 of our fellow music lovers. It's an unassuming cinderblock building, but once our guide let us in, it just felt like some place special. There were big black and white photos of all the greats: Elvis, Jim Reeves, and of course, Miss Dolly. Our guide started playing "Only the Lonely," over the sound system. A Roy Orbison classic! I love Roy! And then, the tears (PS in case you haven't heard, music makes me cry) started-- and this was just in the lobby!

Next, we moved into the actual recording studio-- still home to the Steinway Elvis used to hammer on for hours before he was finally ready to lay down some tracks. Our guide played Skeeter Davis's "The End of the World" and The Everly Brothers' "All I Have to Do is Dream. Tears and tears. And then she told this awesome story about Elvis recording "Are You Lonesome Tonight?" in that very room, in one take, in the dark, at 4am. Then, she shut off the lights and played the whole damn thing. Let's just say my eyeballs and ugly cry face were thankful for the darkness. 
 

Standing in the room where Elvis cut his records& probably pissed a lot of people off with his diva-like antics. 

Standing in the room where Elvis cut his records& probably pissed a lot of people off with his diva-like antics. 


One of the best tours I've ever taken. Who needs to see the Roman Colosseum when RCA Studio B exists? 

 

Country Music Hall of Fame

Pasty's cute little outfit. PS her mom made it for her. 

Pasty's cute little outfit. PS her mom made it for her. 


You can't get to Studio B without buying a ticket to the CMHofF, not that I minded because it was awesome! Tons of cool memorabilia-- like a purple fringy number Patsy Cline once wore, Elvis' gold Cadillac (crushed diamonds in the paint! WHAT?!)-- plus an entire exhibit dedicated to Dylan, Cash & the Nashville Cats. It runs through December of 2016. So if you have ears and love music, go, go, go!
 


Mas Tacos

Mas Tacos greatness. Eat here for sure. 

Mas Tacos greatness. Eat here for sure. 


We waited in line for about 30 minutes for five tacos, a horchata and an agua fresca. It was so good, I would've waited an hour. Probably.  

 

Rodriguez & Brian Wilson at The Woods Amphitheater

Me & my boo, celebrating year one of marriage. 

Me & my boo, celebrating year one of marriage. 


This concert =  whole reason Josh planned the trip. The Beach Boys are my favorite band (super normal for a person born in 1982), but the only musician I might love more is Rodriguez. And here they were, on tour together, going everywhere but the Twin Cities. So Josh surprised me with tickets to the show and guess what!? I cried. 

Amazingly, I didn't cry at the actual show. Not even sure how that's possible, but it's true. The amphitheater is wooded and fairly small, and the weather was perfection. A bit out of town, but a great place to see a concert. Brian Wilson & his huge crew were great (is there anything better than listening to the Beach Boys on a summer night?), but Rodriguez's acoustic set completely stole my heart, just like I expected it would. 
 

Beach Boys!

Beach Boys!


If you're wondering who in the hell is Rodriguez?!, do yourself a solid and watch Searching for Sugar Man. One of the best documentaries of all time!

 

Robert's Western World

Robert's Western World: My most favoritest bar in all the honky tonk land! 

Robert's Western World: My most favoritest bar in all the honky tonk land! 


We were so not ready to go back to our crappy Airbnb, so Josh and I headed to the bars on Broadway. By 10:30 pm, literally every person we passed on the street was so shit-faced they couldn't even walk. Excellent!

There's literally dozens of bars blasting live music and they all look the same-- think Bourbon Street in NOLA or Dirty 6th in Austin, Texas. However, I had it on good authority that Robert's Western World was THE place to go. We weren't disappointed: dark, divey and full of people dancing their pants off to Brazilbilly-- the best house band of all time. They played lots of classic country and I even convinced Josh to dance.

We also mowed one of their famous bologna sandwiches, which all of a sudden is my favorite food. WHERE HAS THIS BEEN ALL MY LIFE? Also, throwing a shout-out to their bathroom, which was the messiest I've seen since my college days. So bad that I was inspired to take a photo. 
 

Animals!

Animals!

One sweet, sweet bowling alley.

One sweet, sweet bowling alley.


Cool space, overrated everything else. Josh and I split this hash that I definitely could've made myself. 
 

I could've made this at home.

I could've made this at home.


Oh well, they have a neat bowling alley AND swimming pool. Plus, there's an awesome view of the skyline from their parking lot, which is where we took this sexy photo. Most chicks splayed across the hood of a [rented] Charger kick off their Birkenstocks first, right?
 

Next stop: the Playboy mansion.

Next stop: the Playboy mansion.

My kind of church. 

My kind of church. 


Confession: I haven't been to church for, well, awhile. But the Mother Church of Country Music fixed that. What I wouldn't give to see a show at the Ryman-- built in 1892 and eventually home of the Grand Ol' Opry for 31 years. The biggest names in country music graced this stage, Patsy included. Since we were tourists and everything, we sprung for the backstage tour and relaxed in the Jonny Cash dressing room for a hot minute. I heard Sturgill Simpson is playing here in October. Who wants to go with me?

 

Union Station Hotel

Union Station... a great place to look at. 

Union Station... a great place to look at. 


We wanted a mid-afternoon snack and cocktail and heard this hotel was an absolute stunner. So we dropped in and yep, the building and lobby were gorgeous. The food and drinks? No so much. They rave about their four-star restaurant and craft cocktail program, but seriously: terrible service, dirty bar and half our food never even arrived! There were only two other people in the place, which would make you think service would at least be speedy, but no. I would've rather eaten McDonald's. 

 

Third Man Records

Jack White was kind enough to take this photo of us. 

Jack White was kind enough to take this photo of us. 


All memories of Union Station vanished once we entered the crazy world of Jack White. It's unlike any record store I've ever experienced-- mostly because the guy who owns it is a kajiliionaire instead one of those enthusiastic but broke music geeks (but I love those guys, too). There's a booth where you can record your own quickie vinyl album, a bunch of cool old instruments and I'm pretty sure I saw some sort of vintage arcade game that involved a chicken that lays eggs(?) There's not much inventory, but what they have is amazing! Check out their selection of albums recorded live at Third Man. We spent $70 on music, no problemo. 
 

Josh, listening to tunes at Third Man Records.

Josh, listening to tunes at Third Man Records.

Giant gold statue, blah blah blah. 

Giant gold statue, blah blah blah. 


Nashville has a full sized replica of the Parthenon. I might get some flack for this one, but not worth your time. It's concrete, and has a bunch of art and crap. Also, this really tall statue. I for one wish I'd have taken a nap instead. ZZZZZZZZZZZZ.


Martin's Bar-B-Que Joint

Martin's BBQ, a Nashville treasure. 

Martin's BBQ, a Nashville treasure. 


This order at the counter spot had a line out the door, but we didn't mind waiting because we knew it'd be good. The dry rub ribs were ridonk, pulled pork smothered in all their sauces ridic, as was the broccoli salad and slaw (I tried to eat some veggies to fend off the meat sweats). 

 

Patsy Cline's House

Patsy Cline's dream home. 

Patsy Cline's dream home. 


While at dinner, I decided to smear bbq sauce all over my phone while Googling "Patsy Cline's House, Nashville." I stumbled upon this Facebook album that not only had photos, but the actual address! Josh and I made the executive decision to do a drive-by and prayed we'd get there before the sun set. We made it, and her home seemed so nice and normal... unlike us weirdos who were driving through a neighborhood at a snail's pace, checking out the home of a celebrity who's been dead for 50 years. The house is so not a tourist destination, but it was a highlight for me. I love Pasty. 



Dino's

Pie me, asap!

Pie me, asap!


After creeping on Patsy, we headed back toward our crappy Airbnb, deciding to make one last stop. Apparently Dino's, Nashville's oldest dive, recently came under new ownership. They only do burgers, fries and handful of other things you dip in a deep fryer or cook on a flat top grill.
 

Fogged up windows and armadillos. This is my kind of place. 

Fogged up windows and armadillos. This is my kind of place. 


However, rumor has it former Husk pasty chef does their pies and desserts. So we stopped in for a slice of pie and beer, which might sound like it doesn't go together, but trust me: it does. 


In total, we spent three nights and two glorious days here. I'm usually the kind that requires a lot of downtime, but Josh and I didn't stop moving the entire trip. If you're looking for an easy, fun US travel destination, THIS IS IT! I'd go back for the bologna sandwiches alone. 


* * *


As you may or may not know, I am all obsessed with traveling in the good ol US of A these days. Here's why.  

Advice: what's the next American destination I should visit? The Carolinas are definitely on my list, as is Savannah. What am I missing?
 



Traveling the USA: Our Vermont Road Trip

Farms, mountains, dirt roads... that's Vermont for ya!

Farms, mountains, dirt roads... that's Vermont for ya!


I'm sure you're guilty of this, too.

At every family gathering, every Christmas and wedding, we tell Josh's Aunt Sue that we really want to visit her in Vermont. And trust me, we REALLY mean it. Not only is she awesome, but she runs a farm and apparently has the most stunning views from her old farm house. 

But then things happen. We traveled for other reasons, we got married, things got busy. So when she announced she was leaving Vermont for good this spring, we were like whoops!

We aimed to drive out for Easter, and then Josh had to work. Last weekend was the only alternative. Which was great 'cause it meant we were visiting Sue five days before she packed up her house and moved halfway across the country. 

Probably not an ideal time to have guests, but hey, we did bring back some of her stuff.

Josh and I left home at 4:30 on a Wednesday.

 

We dialed Sure's address into GPS and boom. 1,296 miles.


Uff-da.


I immediately felt a wave of panic wash over my body like a Victoria's Secret model rolling around on a Caribbean beach. Except waaaay less sexy, cuz all I could think about was how I was going to have to sit in the car for 20-some hours... and then do it again two days later! I've done long road trips before, and I love them, but there is something unsettling about knowing there's 20-some hours of driving between you and home. I dunno, maybe I panic because I recently had the flu. Oh god, what if I get the flu?! Don't think about it. Don't think about it. 

Luckily, I did not get the flu. We made it as far as scenic Gary, Indiana, catching a few hours of shuteye at the Best Western (they allow dogs!). When we plotted our course the next morning, I was thrilled to see we'd be driving through Cleveland at noon!


I've wanted to check out Cleveland for years. 


I word vomited at Josh about Michael Symon, Jonathon Sawyer and West Side Market. For three full hours. We decided to hit up West Side Market, one of the most beautiful and oldest markets in the country. 

After searching out a parking space for 15 minutes, we marched right up to door, ready to mow down on pierogies and sausages and who knows what else. 


Look how cool the building is!
 

West Side Market - Cleveland, Ohio

West Side Market - Cleveland, Ohio


And then, like a cold hearted slap in the face from a feisty Polish grandma, this:
 

You shall not pass!

You shall not pass!


Noooooooooooooo!


Apparently, these weens are only open Monday, Wednesday, Friday & Saturday. WTH!!! There is a restaurant onsite that did appear to be open. So we walked over there and some employee said, all irritated, we close at noon.  


Oh, of course! Just in time for lunch. 
 

So we grabbed lunch at a brewery next door, which wasn't that good but hey. Beer. An hour later, we were back on the road. 


We arrived at Sue's around 10 pm and chatted for about an hour before hitting the hay so hard.


When we woke up, this: 
 

Two Dog Farm - Danby, Vermont

Two Dog Farm - Danby, Vermont


About 1,300 people call Danby, VT home. In some ways, it reminded me of Wisconsin, except more rural with way less bars. I think we decided the nearest one to Sue's house was a 20 minute drive. Sconnies would not stand for that. For what Danby (maybe most of Vermont?) lacks in city conveniences, it more than makes up for it with nature!

We took lots of long walks with the pups, exploring the 5,000 acre farm Sue's called home for eight years. 
 

Sue & Syd  |  Vermont Road Trip

Sue & Syd  |  Vermont Road Trip

Vermont is real purdy.  |  Our Vermont Road Trip

Vermont is real purdy.  |  Our Vermont Road Trip

Patsy loves the farm dog life. 

Patsy loves the farm dog life. 

Just chillin at the farm house. 

Just chillin at the farm house. 


There's an olde timey cemetery on the property, which is catnip for anyone carrying a fancy camera. 
 

Danby, VT old skool cemetery. 

Danby, VT old skool cemetery. 

I love the name Rhoda, but can't name a kid that. Rhoda Katt = life long shame and harassment. 

I love the name Rhoda, but can't name a kid that. Rhoda Katt = life long shame and harassment. 


I even got to drive the tractor, which was scary at first (Hey Eleanor!), but fun after I figured out how all the gears worked. 


Since it was Sue's last weekend in town, we headed to the winter farmers market in Rutland so she could say her goodbyes to her fellow farmers. She's normally selling maple syrup and grass fed beef. But this time, we all just got to go as regular ol' people. Here's some of our faves.


Chaga Moon Tea 

It's tea made from mushrooms foraged on birch trees. Sounds disgusting, but it is delicious (and way good for you!). We bought a half gallon of the orange ginger stuff. It's a bit like chai tea, only you can't get it at Starbucks. 
 

Chaga tea.

Chaga tea.

Not from Starbucks.

Not from Starbucks.


Vermont Cheese

Both Josh and Sue are from Wisconsin, which means they were born with a palate for fine cheese. We bought some of this stuff, plus squeaky cheese curds. I don't know about you guys, but unless cheese curds are fried to perfection, they do nothin for me. But the Sconnies loved 'em.

Bridport Creamery Cheese - Rutland, Vermont Farmers Market

Bridport Creamery Cheese - Rutland, Vermont Farmers Market


Empanadas

We were hungry after the 45 minute drive (which is close, in Vermont terms), and this pulled pork empanada from Ana's hit the spot. 
 

Ana's Empanadas - Rutland, VT 

Ana's Empanadas - Rutland, VT 

Ana's Empanadas - Rutland, VT 

Ana's Empanadas - Rutland, VT 


Sauerkraut & Bison Sausage

I'm starting to think Vermont is Wisconsin's east coast doppelgänger. Kraut & sausage! All they're missing is beer.  

Chrysalis Cultures Spicy Kraut - Rutland, VT

Chrysalis Cultures Spicy Kraut - Rutland, VT

Bison sausage - Rutland, VT

Bison sausage - Rutland, VT


Beer

We found beer, too. The Long Trail Brewery taproom offered tons of IPA, plus a few lighter ales. 

Long Trail Brewery taps - Bridgewater Corners, VT

Long Trail Brewery taps - Bridgewater Corners, VT


We ordered a sampler and it arrived in a muffin tin. That's genius!

Long Trail Brewery taps - Bridgewater Corners, VT

Long Trail Brewery taps - Bridgewater Corners, VT


Maple Creemees

Soft serve ice cream infused with real maple syrup-- my favorite ice cream topping of all time. Worth ordering, even if you might have to say the word creemee. Ew.
 

Maple Creemee - Vermont

Maple Creemee - Vermont

Maple Creemee - Vermont

Maple Creemee - Vermont

Enjoying maple soft serve... also known as a creemee.

Enjoying maple soft serve... also known as a creemee.


Though we spent less than 48 hours in Vermont, it was still completely worth the drive. So much fun, so pretty and lots of good food. Plus, who doesn't love an adventure?!


On our way back, we decided to make a pit stop at Niagara Falls.


It added about an hour to our drive, but worth it-- especially since I'm very committed to my goal to see more of America. Can you believe I did the Grand Canyon & Niagara Falls in a month-ish? By the way, for as beautiful as Niagara Falls is, the town is the exact opposite. 

Beautiful Niagara Falls, NY... Wait... No.

Beautiful Niagara Falls, NY... Wait... No.


The Canadian side is all huge hotels and casinos, so I'm not sure if that's better or worse.

Apparently THE Niagara Falls view is from the Canadian side, but since we didn't have passports, were toting a dog and a cooler full of meat, we stayed in the USA. Fun fact: I've been to all seven continents, but I've never been to Canada. Canada is a six hour drive from my house. Adding it to my to-do list right now!

Here's Bridal Veil Falls. Check out that serious ice. 
 

Bridal Veil Falls - Niagara Falls, NY

Bridal Veil Falls - Niagara Falls, NY

Niagara Falls, NY

Niagara Falls, NY


We made it home at 11 pm on Sunday night. 2,600 miles, 44 hours of driving, five days. What can I say? It was a little bit crazy. But sometimes you just gotta embrace the crazy. 

Road trip: Minneapolis > Cleveland > Niagra Falls > Vermont

Road trip: Minneapolis > Cleveland > Niagra Falls > Vermont


A shout out to Sue for hosting us (she's probably doing this same drive as I write this!), as well as to the folks at Invisibilia, Nom Nom Paleo, The Lifesize Liberation, and The Podcast Method for keeping us entertained with hours of podcasts. Listen to them all on your next cross country trip. The time will fly. 

 

* * *


In case you didn't know, traveling in the US is pretty darn great. Two excellent examples: Palm Springs & the Grand Canyon. GO NOW!

What it's like to Scuba Dive at the Great Barrier Reef


A little over a year ago, I would've considered scuba diving as my greatest fear. Now, I don't even like it.


I love it.


So much so that Josh and took our honeymoon in Australia just so we could see the thing before it dies

So what's the reef like? The video doesn't even begin to do the place justice. It's stunning, and mind-blowing to think we only saw one itty-bitty section.

And what's more, I'm flabbergasted that I found happiness doing something I'd always feared. Go figure. 
 

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Go to the Grand Canyon Now!

travel-grand-canyon-feature.jpg


Last week, I finally made it to the Grand Canyon. 


I've heard people say, What's the big deal? It's just a giant hole in the ground! I even overheard one lady at the canyon declare, You've seen one view, you've seen them all.


People who say stuff like that are big, dumb idiots. 


I've somehow managed to see all seven continents, and I can assure you the Grand Canyon is one of the most stunning places on earth. In fact, I can't think of a place I've been so viscerally affected by nature. You stand at the rim-- which used to be at the bottom of an ocean!-- peering a mile down at rocks that used to be mountains as high as the Himalayas. I mean, I dare you to wrap your head around that. You can't, especially if you're not standing there looking at it.

Even if you're standing there looking at it, it's still like wooosh! It's a place that hung around with the dinosaurs; where water proved its dominance over rock. It makes you feel like the tiny, insignificant thing you are.

And if you think you can outsmart the Grand Canyon, I've got news for you: One misstep, and it will eat you alive. Plummeting hundreds of feet because you took one too many steps backwards for a selfie? Happens! Hiking to the bottom without enough water? Not a good idea... just ask the people who never made it back up. Thinking you can make it to the bottom and back in a day? Your heart isn't going to like that very much. I know because I'm reading a book about it


I'd always wanted to see it, so when I unexpectedly found myself heading to Arizona, I tacked it on to my trip.  

My dad joined me on this little adventure. Sixty-six candles on his birthday cake last weekend and yet this was also his first time the big hole hole in the ground. 

Five million people visit the canyon a year, but I'm fairly certain only three-percent of those arrive in the winter (a totally made up stat!). Sure, it's a bit cold and yes, it can be slippery/snowy, but who cares! It's the Grand Canyon! And you basically get it all to yourself. 

Snow! In the Grand Canyon! Believe it! It happens! In the winter!

Snow! In the Grand Canyon! Believe it! It happens! In the winter!


We stayed at the Kachina Lodge, which is this weird 60s-style bunker of a hotel right next to El Tovar, which is a cool 100+-year-old lodge the just reeks of Teddy Roosevelt (in a good way!). While I would've liked to have stayed at the historic hotel, I was just thrilled to have a place near the canyon.
 

And when I say near the canyon, check out our view:
 

The view from Kachina Lodge made up for their shitty, flat pillows. 

The view from Kachina Lodge made up for their shitty, flat pillows. 


The reservation staff actually asked if we'd be interested in paying an extra $10 a night for that view.


What do you think I am? A dummy? Sign me up!


Since it was my dad's birthday, and since we were at the Grand Canyon, we decided to experience the national park like I'd imagine Beyonce would: In a helicopter!
 

That's not Beyonce, that's my dad. 

That's not Beyonce, that's my dad. 


We booked with Papillon, the first-ever aerial sightseeing tour... which basically means you + helicopter + amazing sights = winning. My dad, who didn't earn the nickname Captain Safety for nothin', was a bit apprehensive about this whole helicopter thing. It helped that Papillon has 50 years of experience flying at the canyon.

Before our departure, Papillon employee and super nice guy Monty, gave us a briefing on what to expect, which basically consisted of "pay attention to the safety video" and "pay no attention to what I say about the ride because you can't put it into words."

Before we left, Monty said the ride is guaranteed to make your mascara run. I'm not a particularly cry-y person, so I said, we'll see.

We piled into the helicopter, put on our headphones, lifted off the ground, and bam! There we were, flying over the forest with Enya's Orinoco Flow blasting through our headsets.


So cheesy and PS I LOVED IT!


Off in the distance, I saw the the canyon. 

Hey! I think I see something!

Hey! I think I see something!


As we approached the rim, the pilot slowed considerably. I think he said something like, ready?


And then he flew over the edge. 


It was as though the air had been sucked out of the cab. My heart did a loop-de-loo. This photo, obviously, doesn't even begin to do it justice. 
 

Hallelujah! Hallelujah! hallelujah hallelujah halle lu jah!

Hallelujah! Hallelujah! hallelujah hallelujah halle lu jah!


The beauty, the vastness... It's overwhelming. I've honestly never been so acutely aware of my own mortality, and definitely never felt as patriotic. From sea to shining seeeeeeeaaaa! I suddenly wanted to buy a big, blue pickup truck with a bald eagle scape in the rear window. 


Monty was right about my mascara.
 

I'm not going to bore you with details because my words just don't cut it. Go see the canyon for yourself. 

Our ride lasted 45 - 50 minutes, but it felt like 10. So for those of you deciding between the short version to a longer one, go for the long one if you can! And btw, I know helicopter rides are expensive, but I can say without a doubt it was one of the coolest things I've ever done in my life.


So start saving up. 


Next time I visit the canyon, I'm hiking to the bottom, camping and experiencing it like only FIVE percent of visitors do. Can you believe that only five percent go below the rim?!  Another crazy stat: 85 percent of the canyon hasn't been explored. So almost all of it. WHAT?!

It's one of the most popular tourist destinations on earth, and yet still so wild. You need to see it. If you're in Vegas or Arizona or anywhere within a drive (or helicopter ride!) of the GC, go. It's way better than just a big hole in the ground.

And if you wear mascara, make sure it's waterproof. 



* * *


This trip to the Grand Canyon is part of my latest goal to see as much of America as possible... because traveling in the USA is pretty darn great! PS here's a recap of my first trip to the real south, which obviously involved going to Walmart. 

 

Traveling in the USA is Pretty Darn Great.

We made a pitstop in Sedona. Hi, God!

We made a pitstop in Sedona. Hi, God!


It's 6 am and I can't sleep because I'm too excited! I spent all of yesterday traveling-- a three hour flight, a four hour drive (with a two hour hike in the middle to break it up) and now...


I am finally at the Grand Canyon!


I've always wanted to see this big hole in the ground, and I've been so close a few times-- as near as Four Corners, which was nothing to write home about. But somehow, the only time I've seen this bad body is with my face pressed against an airplane window (which is one of my favorite ways to sightsee). 


So here I sit, at the Kachina Lodge, perched along the south rim, waiting for the sun to rise.


We shelled out the extra 10 bucks for a canyon view room.


I think it'll be worth it. 

In January, the husband and I spent two-and-a-half weeks in Australia and New Zealand. And yeah, it was a trip of a lifetime. But both Josh and I got to thinking that though these places are beautiful, who's to say they're any more beautiful or awesome than what's in our own backyard? And by backyard, I mean the United States. We spent basically our entire life savings & four full travel days on visiting the land down under, and yet and I can't say the trip made me happier than if we'd stayed closer to home. 

So we decided that maybe it's time we start exploring more here in America. Josh and I have traveled a ton, but neither of us has seen much of the National Parks. I've always wanted to visit Yosemite and Joshua Tree and Acadia... but I simply never it a priority.


It is now.


This weekend, I'm heading to a dear friend's memorial service in Tucson. I decided to tack on two days at the Grand Canyon. Josh has already been here a few times, so I enlisted my father in the journey. He's 65 and has never seen it either!

Traveling with a parent is pretty funny. My dad insists on asking for directions every five minutes and tips literally every person who ever does anything for us, like cashiers at parking ramps. But of course, what I'm really feeling is fortunate that I still have both of my parents and get to still have adventures with them. More on that later!

Today, we're doing some hiking, taking a Jeep and Helicopter ride. It's a jam-packed day, but I couldn't be more excited. This never would've happened if I hadn't made it a priority. 

 


* * *

I gotta run, but in the meantime, what's your favorite US travel destination/state park? Looking to add a few more to my list!

Not the first time I've written about traveling with parents-- except last time, it was my husband's. And here's one of my favorite US destinations (I got to wear a muumuu!).